Monday, December 12, 2011

Breakfast


We ate breakfast both mornings at this lovely little truly Puerto Rican cafe. Ali has eaten his breakfast here everyday for about two years! One waiter has been working here for fifty-two years.

It was charming, but let me tell you that first I had to wake up, wash, dress, get down those 50 or 60 stairs, walk a few blocks and THEN get my cup of coffee. Was it worth it? You bet it was. There special is something called a Mallorca. It is ham and cheese between bread, sort of. The bread is warm and it is something of a cross between bread and a croissant and it is dusted with powdered sugar. Sounds strange, doesn't it, but it is delicious, especially with a freshly brewed cup of Puerto Rican coffee with hot milk.

After breakfast we set off to another cafe where Ali did more work on my laptop. I forgot to tell you that yesterday he started cleaning up all the stuff on there that I didn't need. He called it maintenance, something I don't do. He also added some 2000 songs to my Itunes - yippee.

Again, Ali was just stellar. I waited at the cafe while he walked home, got his car, brought my bags downstairs, picked me up at the cafe, and then drove me to the little airport for my flight to Culebra at 1:00 pm. What can I say except this man in special. He made my time in Old San Juan unforgettable. A time that will always be magical to me.

Around Town

On Sunday I did some typical tourist stuff. I took the free trolleys to see all the main sites and wandered around the streets. What a difference from yesterday. Today all I met were tourists, mostly those only in port for a few hours on a cruise stop. It was fun,but completely different than my incredible immersion into Puerto Rican culture yesterday.

An amazing time









I arrived at 2:35 pm, but didn't get upstairs to Ali's place until about midnight. The dear man carted my heavy bags up approximately 50 stairs to his lovely 3rd floor apartment in the heart of historical Old San Juan while I waited downstairs. Now, doesn't he deserve an A+. This historic centre is so picturesque. Here are a few shots. It is all decked out for Christmas - everywhere - all the squares, streets, restaurants etc.

After getting a bite to eat at an outdoor cafe, we proceeded to a special celebration. It was the 23 anniversary party in honour of Ricardo Alegria who founded the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture.

Ricardo Alegría

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Ricardo Alegría
BornApril 14, 1921
San Juan, Puerto Rico
DiedJuly 7, 2011
San Juan, Puerto Rico
NationalityPuerto Rican
OccupationCultural anthropologist and archeologist

Ricardo Alegría (April 14, 1921 – July 7, 2011) was a Puerto Rican scholar, cultural anthropologist and archeologistknown as the "Father of Modern Puerto Rican Archaeology".[1]

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[edit]Early years

Alegría was born in San Juan, Puerto Rico, where he received his primary and secondary education. He was motivated by his father, Jose Alegría, who taught him to love Puerto Rico and to be proud of its history and culture. In 1941 at the University of Puerto Rico, he founded the Puerto Rican Fraternity Alpha Beta Chi in search of a fraternity that based its principles in equality, fairness and acceptance of all that wanted to join. In 1942, Alegría earned his Bachelors of Science degree in archeology from the University of Puerto Rico. He continued his academic education in the University of Chicago where in 1947 he earned his Masters in Antropology and History. In 1954, Alegría earned his PhD. (doctorate) in Antropology from Harvard University.[2]

[edit]Institute of Puerto Rican Culture

Alegría was named the first director of the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture by Luis Muñoz Marín, Puerto Rico's first elected governor. He was responsible for the creation of the "Archaeological Center of Investigation of the University of Puerto Rico". Alegría also created the "Center of Popular Arts of the Puerto Rican Cultural Institute", the program of publication of books of the institute, and created the logo for the Institute of Neurobiology in Puerto Rico.

Alegría was responsible for the renovation and restoration of historical Old San Juan under the leadership of then San Juan mayor Felisa Rincón de Gautier. He is also responsible for the restoration of the ruins of "Caparra" and "Fort San Jeronimo". As a result of his work "Old San Juan" was declared a "Historical World Treasure". In 1976, Alegría opened the "Center of Advanced Studies of Puerto Rico and the Caribbean". In 1992, he established the "Museum of the Americas".[3]

[edit]Anthropology pioneer

Alegría is credited with being a pioneer in the anthropologic studies of the Taino culture and the African heritage in Puerto Rico. His extensive studies have helped historians understand how the Taínos lived and suffered, before and after the Spanish Conquistadores arrived in the island. Alegría estimated that about one third of all Puerto Ricans (2 million out of 6 million) have Taíno blood and therefore the Taínos were not completely extinct and some had to survive. Recently, the results of recent DNA studies have proved him right.[4]

[edit]Written works

The following is a list of books which Alegría has either authored or co-authored.

  • "Ball Courts and Ceremonial Plazas in the West Indies"
  • "The three wishes; a collection of Puerto Rican folktales"(1969) ( with Lorenzo Homar)
  • "History of the Indians of Puerto Rico"
  • "El Instituto de Cultura Puertorriqueña, 1955–1973 : 18 años contribuyendo a fortalecer nuestra conciencia nacional"
  • "Taino: Pre-Columbian Art & Culture from the Caribbean" (with Fatima Bercht and Jose J. Arrom)
  • "Las primeras representaciones gráficas del indio americano, 1493–1523"
  • "Descubrimiento, conquista y colonización de Puerto Rico, 1493–1599" (with Mela Pons Alegría)
  • "Historia y Cultura de Puerto Rico: Desde La Epoca Pre-Colombina Hasta Nuestros Dias"
  • "Excavations at Maria de La Cruz Cave & Hacienda Grande Village Site, Loiza, Puerto Rico" (with Irving Rouse)
  • "La vida de Jesucristo según el santero puertorriqueño Florencio Cabán"
  • "San Juan de Puerto Rico" (with Manuel Méndez Guerrero and María de los Angeles Castro Arroyo)
  • "Cafe" (1967)
  • "Programa De Parques Y Museos Del Instituto De Cultura Puertorriquena" (1973)
  • "La Fiesta De Santiago Apostol En Loiza Aldea"
  • "El Fuerte De San Jerónimo Del Boquerón"

[edit]Awards and recognitions

In 1993, President Bill Clinton presented Alegría with the "Charles Frankel Prize" for his contributions in the field of archaeology. In 1996, he was awarded the "James Smithson Bicentennial Medal". In 2001, Alegría received from the hands of Nancy Morejon "The Haydee Santamaria Medal" in Havana, Cuba. In 2002, Alegría received the "Luis Muñoz Marín Medal" in recognition of his life achievements from Puerto Rican Governor Sila Calderón. Puerto Rican artist Lorenzo Homar honored Alegría by making an artistic graphic poster of him.[4]

Alegría also received recognition from cultural and architectural organizations in Peru, Venezuela, Mexico and the Dominican Republic, where he also received an honorary doctorate. The city of Havana recognized his influence in the project to remodel the city's historical district (similar to Alegría's work in Old San Juan) by honoring him with a plaque, which, while he was alive, was the only monument honoring a living Puerto Rican in the entire city.

Puerto Rican folk duo Los Niños Estelares dedicated a tribute song to Alegría, named "Alegría, Doctor Alegría", in their 2010 album, Namasté. In it they describe many of Alegría's accomplishments, his educational background, and -partly in jest, due to Alegría's impressive credentials- likened him to Indiana Jones. In the lyrics, they name Alegría "the last Puerto Rican hero."

[edit]Legacy and death

Nobel laureate Mario Vargas Llosa became inspired by Alegría's work and incorporated a fictional character based on him, named Ricardo Santurce, in his play El loco de los balcones. "I admire him a lot; his work was extraordinary. Not only did he resuscitate a barrio, Old San Juan, which is very beautiful, but he did it without allowing it to be turned into a museum. He gave it a great vitality and integrated it to current life, showing in a quite concrete way that the past can be a very rich and stimulating element for the present. I wish all Latin American countries had a Ricardo Alegría”.[attribution needed]

Ricardo Alegría lived in Old San Juan in his later years, until his death on July 7, 2011. He had been hospitalized in San Juan's Centro Medico (Medical Center Hospital) a few weeks before his death. After a brief recovery, he relapsed, and was returned to the medical center, where he died of heart failure.[5]

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That party was just getting started. Ali prepared plates of a little bit of everything. I got to taste the best of Puerto Rican food.

But, I was told we needed to leave since we were going to another venue for some really good music.

I forget the name of the place and cannot find it on this computer where Ali wrote everything down! Anyway, it was simply amazing. It is a like a musical museum. Everyweek they have a program and this week I really lucked out because it was a special programme. I just cannot tell you how extraordinary it all was. Perhaps when Ali reads this he will write more about it in the comments section PLEASE.

There was a gathering in the outer chamber amid a profusion of tropical plants and blooms and then almost like a procession into the inner sanctum. There were probably fifty people in a small cozy room. The musical program was stupendous. I really wish I had a CD of the night, so that you could hear it, however a few photos will have to suffice.




Thank you to the usual suspects,

Kam Lin
Nihat Aydin
Neighbours: Shirley and Aysel

with my gratefulness for keeping an eye on things at home.

Upon arriving in San Juan I was met at the airport by Ali Francis Garcia, my host in San Juan for two nights.

Ali is an amazing man. He is so complex that many might not 'get' him. I think I glimpsed a little of him and I really admire him.

I hope I wasn't too much trouble for him.

Aside from what I have written elsewhere, I must say that when we were out he gave a great walking tour of the historic area, especially the - ship/gate/cathederal/convent/bar/cathederal/gate/ship one - It's OK if you don't know about it, he and I do and it makes me laugh. Ali, I will never forget that walk.

I cannot even imagine spending time in Old San Juan without Ali.

Ali, may your life be showered with blessings.






In Culebra

I arrived in Culebra about an hour ago and am now settled in my little room. I had an amazing time for the two nights I spent in Old San Juan and will write and post photos later. Right now I plan to walk to the corner store to pick up some essentials.

Friday, December 9, 2011

Ready, set, go!

It is almost midnight here and I need to get up at 4:30 in the morning. Thankfully I don't have a problem sleeping on planes because I want to be awake, out and about, tomorrow night in Old San Juan.

It snowed here yesterday and a little today, so it looks like I am getting out of Dodge just in time. Then, let it snow, let it snow. Oh did I tell you it was 87F there today.

Monday, December 5, 2011

The Countdown

Yes, it is almost time to leave. Only five more nights in the, soon to be cold, north. I leave early on Saturday morning and will land in San Juan at 2:35 pm. I am spending two nights in Old San Juan before catching my puddle jumper half hour flight to Culebra.

I guess it really is time to start packing!